Introduction
What didn't I like?
"Tears streamed down my eyes"
As the plane arrived over Lima I glimpsed the "shanty dwellings" located on the spurs of the Andes that stretch right down to the Pacific coast.
Tears flooded uncontrollably down my face.
I smiled to myself as I embarrassingly wiped the tears away.
I hadn't realised that I had such deep-rooted emotions; I had made the right decision to return to Lima.
Once "safely" in San Isidro or Miraflores you can go about your normal daily life in complete ignorance of the poverty; like I had done for 40 years living and travelling around Europe - we are so fortunate to have such a good lifestyle.
As the years pass, memories fade, as do the "feelings". One forgets the reality that only the combinations of conversation, touch, sight and smell of "being there" can convey.
continued
Lima: "Shanty Towns"
In my view there is a difference between the so-called "Shanty Towns" and the "Pueblos Jovenes", the "Young/New Towns". I have seen both referred to as "slums".
The "Shanty Towns" forty years ago were slums. Dirty, smelly, no sewers, no electricity and no running water.
Today there are still some slums, but most of these "shanty towns" (in Lima) now have electricity, running water or a "portable water" service and some even have a sewerage system. Also, staircases have been built (fairly recently).
I also noticed that the very old "Shanty Town" over-looking Lima, San Cristobal, has been painted. I believe that financial support was given for this. Cynical "moi" tells me that this was a marketing campaign by the Mayor as they are very visible by tourists visiting central Lima.
Most disadvantaged people do not render nor paint their houses as it is a needless expense and it does not often rain heavily in Lima. Temperatures in Lima do not normally drop below 12degC.
Lima: "Pueblos Jovenes", means "Young/New Towns"
These huge "New Towns" were created during the last 40 years.
The early settlers were poor migrants who moved into the barren, sandy areas to the north, east and south of Lima, swelling the population of the capital from some 3 to 6 million.Lima now has a pop. of over 8 million, 1/3 of Peru's population.
They had migrated from the Andes and the jungle during the "bad years" of internal conflict during the 80s seeking security and opportunities.
Pic:
Red, Purple and light & dark Green is the "original" Lima (1961)
Grey to the West being the port of Callao.
The "New Towns" are in:
Yellow and Turquoise to the north,
Blue to the east, and
Brown to the south
Lima: "Pueblos Jovenes", means "New Towns" (contd)
Initially these migrants were "re-buffed" by the police and the military.
Today, these "New Towns" are recognised districts of Metropolitan Lima. They are, in the main, well laid out (most have pavements and surfaced roads), and have their own Mayor, Town Hall, Banks, Police and Schools.
"Tottus" (a supermarket) opened in Villa María del Triunfo in Dec 2008, see link, below.
Interspersed in these "New Towns" one will find "shanty towns"/slums and, as you can see in the photos, some very poor have built their homes on the side of the mountains.
(read more)
Quite frankly, their achievements in the face of adversity are very impressive!
However, most of the 4 million inhabitants of these "New Towns", approx. 70% in
Villa María del Triunfo, remain in the lowest Socio Economic bands; "D" and "E".
I stayed for about one week in one of these districts with Fernando and his family; in Villa María de Triunfo.
I'll be honest; my first impressions were not that good. "Could I really live here?" I asked myself. I made the decision in 3 seconds. - "Yes". (I will when I return to manage the construction of the Learning/Cultural Centre).
I was more than aware that not many "gringos" passed this way. An old friend who had lived in Lima all her life didn't even know where this District of 350,00 inhabitants was! (It is 1 hour by car through busy streets from San Isidro and less than 10min from the Pan American highway as she drives south to her summer retreat
by the beach). One needs to get over the visuals: The fact that many houses are not rendered nor painted and not completed - they leave the re-inforcing metal rods protruding above so that they can complete the next floor when they have enough money - and that some roads are not tarmaced.
Another factor is that you are the only white skinned person around!. Well, it's nice to be different, lol !
The market was something else - fresh orange juice for breakfast, great selection of vegetables and fruit.
I met the head mistress of one of the state schools which is supported by the Asociación Atocongo (the NGO arm of "Cementos Lima") and eat in one of the good local restaurants.
I was made extremely welcome by Fernando's parents and his 3 brothers and 4 sisters. They did not stand on ceremony; they treated me as an equal.
With Fernando's Theatrical troop we did a "pasacalle" (parade) through the district to the main square as publicity for their performance of "Jesus Christ Superstar" (with a comic twist) later that week in the play-ground of one of the schools.
Eduardo (with the red wig) wouldn't be out of place on the stage in the West End of London !
My personal security was never an issue, but like all areas of Peru, one garages ones car over night. I have left my car with Fernando for when I return and have no cause for concern for its safety.
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The first is to be located in a disadvantaged district of Lima - Villa María de Triunfo.
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